In Monday's set of show reviews via The Cut, Cathy Horn points out a crucial dilemma for young designers: Creating a signature look. On the one hand, they need to distinguish their work from other lines, but - at the same time - if they become too tightly branded, their clothing can quickly become cliched. It's basically a vicious fashion circle.
Horn's examples were all right on, but I especially liked what she had to say about Ryan Roche (disclaimer: I'm a fan; I used several of her pieces in Beauty Underground's "Subject" story). Roche's collection of knitwear combined a variety of textures, shapes and fabrics in a rich, well thought out and technically beautiful collection. She nailed her "brand" - poetic, dreamy and luxurious knits - while expanding her collection offering.
Roche also proved the benefit of a tightly edited collection. There were 19 looks in her presentation - not 35 or 40 - but the lookbook displays everything you need to know about her Fall 2015 lineup, from the styling to the color story to key looks and silhouettes.