Mood Board: Victorian Gothic

Many creative directors for Fall 2026 took their style cues from the darker side of Victorian romance novels. Their runways were awash with the kind of moody hues seen in a William Morris wallpaper, while the materials and details leaned into the opulent—think delicate lace, intricate corsetry, oversized bows, beaded caplets, leg-of-mutton sleeves, and opera-length gloves. Silhouettes emphasized the signature Victorian elements of face-framing high collars and narrow waists. Taken all together, it was hyper-charged femininity à la Guillermo del Toro’s Frankenstein.

But was the subtext to provide escapism from an increasingly fragmented and tech-driven world, or was it a subversive commentary on a woman’s traditional role as wife and mother—those idealized Victorian expectations? Either way, designers used these historical elements as a vehicle to highlight traditional textile and handcraftmanship.

The most successful looks, however, took the high goth idea out of the Victorian novel and into modern day life. Brands like Ashlyn and AlainPaul crafted silhouettes that nodded to the trend while keeping them unfussy, focusing instead on clean lines and easy movement.

Credits (clockwise from upper left): The Nightmare by Henry Fuseli, 1781, Detroit Institute of Arts; Altuzarra; Sacai; Chloé; Colleen Atwood; Frankenstein; Matières Fécales; Meruer Tolegen; Collina Strada; Pauline Dujancourt; Erdem; Simone Rocha; Khaite; Melanie Georgacopoulos “Eclipse” chain necklace 3, melaniegeorgacopoulos.com; Lela Rose; “Wandle” furnishing fabric by William Morris, 1884, V&A Museum; Plan C; Ashlyn; Marlo Laz-Lexi Cigar Band 14kt gold, citrine, and diamond ring, Net-a-Porter; Ann Demeulemeester; ALAINPAUL; Veronica Veronese by Dante Gabriel Rosetti, 1872, Delaware Art Museum; Coach; Thierry Colson “Wind” ruffled ruched cotton voile blouse, Net-a-Porter; Frankenstein; Jimmy Choo “Scarlett” 50 leather-trimmed lace pump, Net-a-Porter; and Bibhu Mohapatra.