Brand DNA Over Discourse
A few days into the Milan Fall 2026 collections, two polarizing shows—Gucci and Fendi—have jumped to the forefront of the fashion conversation. It’s an interesting moment that brings me back to a discussion we had in November about how creative directors were embracing house codes after years of brand DNA being considered an afterthought. This season, as Demna and Maria Grazia Chiuri present their first full runway visions, we are seeing them meet their respective brands exactly where their DNA lives—whether the online “peanut gallery” likes it or not.
The Client vs. The Commentary
In the flurry of digital fashion discourse, what often seems to be overlooked is that while the show may—in part—be an entertainment vehicle, ultimately it’s a client presentation. After years of brands chasing viral "moments" to appease an algorithm, we are now seeing the pendulum swinging back. Brands are developing a backbone, realizing that an "opinion" from someone who doesn’t buy the product is just noise.
Unless you are a client, a seasoned journalist, or an industry expert drawing from deep historical knowledge, your critique is likely adding to the "sea of sameness" that many of us are exhausted by. And let me just be clear: I’m not trying to say people should not have opinions on fashion shows, but I am saying that if you are not a client or someone who can add an informed point of view to the conversation, then your opinion is a passing observation.
Case Study: The Sexy vs. The Successful
Take Demna at Gucci. His debut on the Milan runway this week was an intriguing mashup of his own subversive, street-style aesthetic with the brand’s jet set DNA. And while he gave a few nods to Alessandro Michele’s tenure, he leaned hard into the core Gucci DNA rooted in the Tom Ford era: ultra sexy, body-aware, and glamorous. He clearly identified that Gucci’s core money-maker is "The Superbrand" energy—slick, provocative, and accessories-heavy. Whether it speaks to you personally is immaterial; the question is, does it sell the dream to the Gucci client? With the clothing serving as a backdrop to the solid lineup of accessories—the brand’s moneymaker—it seems Demna delivered a show that was exactly what this troubled house needed.
We’re seeing a similar story at Fendi, where there has been an outpouring of digital venom directed at Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut. Online critics called the show overly commercial (an attack leveled against many NYC labels this season, as if wearability is a creative failure), "depressing" and “a mess,” while some comments devolved into personal attacks. These armchair critics seem to forget her staggering success at Dior, where “revenues reportedly rose by nearly $8 billion from 2017 to 2023.” (The Independent) Clearly, she understands how to design clothes women actually want to wear. Which is why her Fendi collection offered a sophisticated, complete wardrobe for an adult woman that melded feminine fabrics and shapes with masculine tailoring. From the forgiving silhouette that included a chic, just below the knee skirt length to the generous coats and highly desirable fur-trimmed vests, the collection had appeal for a wide range of ages. The accessories were equally a standout, particularly the modern lariat necklaces and patchwork fur Baguette. Though the collection was not a "costume" for a TikTok trend, it was an investment for a global clientele that values real clothing over a 15-second viral clip.
Owning the Space
The bottom line? In 2026, smart brands are realizing that social media "influencers" are often just an unnecessary layer between them and their core fans.
As my sister and I preach in our branding work: You have to own your own spaces. If you are at the mercy of third-party platforms and the "online noise," you aren't building a brand—you're building a feed. The strongest houses are now digging into their DNA, creating niche environments for their actual customers, and remembering that the only metric that truly matters is the bottom line.
Crystal-encrusted Fendi Baguette bag. Photo courtesy of Khairil Azhar Junos / Shutterstock.
