February News Roundup

1.

It’s a tough economic climate for emerging and independent designers right now, and the struggle isn’t limited to our side of the pond. Despite Europe’s robust system of awards and incubators, independent designers in Paris are facing the same uphill battles their U.S. peers are: skyrocketing labor costs and overhead, as well as the sheer financial weight of staging a runway show. Interestingly, the upcoming Parisian mayoral election is bringing these issues to the forefront. There are some compelling ideas being floated to better support indie talent—many of which NYC would be wise to take note of. Read more here.

LOEWE Ginza, Tokyo, Japan. Photo courtesy of slyellow / Shutterstock.

2.

The Loewe Foundation just announced the shortlist for the ninth edition of its prestigious Craft Prize. The 30 finalists were selected from more than 5,100 submissions and represent a wide range of crafts from ceramics and textiles to furniture, metalwork, lacquer and glass. These artisans preserve traditional techniques while simultaneously manipulating their materials to push the limits of their craft. The winner will be announced on May 12th. View the nominees here.

Kate Hawley at the 41st Annual Santa Barbara International Film Festival. Photo courtesy of Carla Van Wagoner / Shutterstock.

3.

Back in December, I discussed how inspiring I found the art direction and costume design of Guillermo del Toro’s Frankenstein, with its maximalist Gothic-Romantic-Industrial vibe. It seems the Academy agrees, as Kate Hawley has been nominated for an Oscar for Best Costume Design for her work on the film. In this deep-dive interview, Hawley discusses her creative process and how she brought a fresh perspective to these iconic characters. Explore the full interview here.

Detail of vintage Hermès Birkin bag. Photo courtesy of kipgodi / Shutterstock.

4.

In one of the biggest industry moves this month, Hermès announced its intention to enter the world of Haute Couture by 2026 or 2027. In many ways, this feels like a natural evolution; the maison is already widely considered the pinnacle of artisanal craftsmanship and material excellence. Still, the move to the official Couture calendar is a massive strategic shift. Here’s a look at why Hermès is expanding now and the unique challenges that lie ahead for the house. Learn more here.

5.

Is meaningful friction just the latest social media buzz phrase or is it the essence of modern luxury? According to Highsnobiety, it’s the latter—a deliberate reintroduction of the human hand by companies to showcase the kind of time-intensive qualities that technology has tried so hard to erase. Think: hand-drawn illustrations over digital perfection, or brands highlighting the labor of an artisan.

As hyper-optimization becomes passé, celebrating "slow" and traditional processes is suddenly more on-trend than ever. Discover why the most forward-thinking brands are leaning into the resistance. Discover the trend here.

Interior view of the Hermes boutique in the former swimming pool of the Lutetia Hotel in Paris. Photo courtesy of EQRoy / Shutterstock.